Nepal plateau

Varanasi is only a 40 minute flight from Kathmandu. I couldn't pass up the opportunity to revisit what I consider to be my first experience with foreign travel 4 ½ years ago. Arriving to Nepal in 2001, not only was I taking in this new land and culture, I was also a different person.

The people and the amazing beauty of the landscape lured me back as well…it was an opportunity just a stone's throw away that I didn't want to pass up. While I was in Varanasi I was surrounded by any backpackers who spoke of treks they planned to take in Nepal. I also caught the bug and started to scrap my previous plans for March and instead embark on a solo Himalayan trek.

Nepal has endured a decade or more of political strife with Maoists. In fact, in the past months, the US released a foreign travel advisory indicating Nepal as unsafe for travel. Speaking to other travelers about the situation, I realized it was the same song and dance as when I was here last time. I proceeded on my flight northward. The taxi drove me from the airport past several posted armored military vehicles surrounded by Nepalis in fatigues and clutching large rifles. This was a site far more dramatic than I had recalled from my last visit.

Settling into my hotel room, I relished my comfy digs especially since, in addition to the trekking bug, I had contracted some other bug upon arrival to Nepal. While traveling in Asia I occasionally get "abdominal unrest" that lasts 1-2 days. This time I had a cough and cold that I assumed would have a similar short affect. Carrying on with my stay in Kathmandu, I spent my days researching trek itineraries, for what length of duration and which ones would be safest for doing alone.

In addition I spent several hours each day wandering around the old town and visiting Buddhist stupas. These were surrounded by thousands of exiled Tibetans who have claimed Nepal as their temporary home.

The bustling streets of old Kathmandu have several hidden gems. Every so often I passed tiny ornate doors with passageways leading to courtyards…town squares housing Buddhist stupas or Hindu temples, surrounded by the homes of those who spend their hours doing laundry,

playing games and relaxing in this bit of peace mere feet and a doorway from the frenzy of the street outside.

The US travel warning and the rifle-clad military men on every corner didn't give me much alarm. What kept me on my toes with fear however, were the young village pranksters armed with small plastic bag water bombs. It's funny to me that I have distant fascination with military men, but when I hear the splat of the water bomb that just missed me by inches my heart races.

By day 3 here, I realized that not only was my cold hanging tough, I was repeatedly asking myself "what the hell am I doing here?"

I do love Nepal and then opportunity to do another trek here is very appealing…but at this time in my life I am feeling a great deal of disconnect. I scrapped any plans of trekking altogether and reserved my open return ticket to India…while leaving a few extra days for sightseeing.

Unfortunately my health became debilitated and I suspected that this wasn't an ordinary cold. Having been sick while traveling before I know how being holed up in my room feeling awful coincides with homesickness. Lying in my bed for hours I began to have fantasies of having contracted the avian flu and dying. In addition, the Indian astrologer's forecast for my somewhat dismal future revisited my thoughts and I began to have the worst night of my journey thus far; feeling no hope and completely alone.

For some reason I have had no interaction with other people since arriving to Nepal. Nor do I seek it. I realize that I am smack dab in the middle of my journey and I am withdrawing in every way possible.

My return to India seems to be the light to pick me up again.

…and strangely so, because Nepal is cleaner (the streets are free of roaming animals and garbage), the people friendly and gentle and their business savvy is far more sophisticated than India.

Yet I yen for India.

I researched my symptoms online and it appears that I have a flu with possibility of slight pneumonia. If this persists I will visit a doctor in New Delhi. I am diligently trying to attain recovery and have followed the advice on the internet of drinking fluids (soups & juices) and bed rest. I've spent the past 24 hours in bed sleeping.

my photos of Nepal