Sunday, February 19, 2006

A leaf from the Bodhi tree


Gaya is the gateway to Bodhgaya, my next destination. With only a jaunt of 13km to travel I decided to save some rupees by taking the shared rickshaw. I was greeted at the rickshaw stand by two men announcing loudly “BodhgayaBodhgayaBhodgaya…”

When I echoed with acknowledgement “BodhgayaBodhgayaBhodgaya!” they erupted into laughter. Without knowing why, I chimed in for the guffaw. Jumping into the back of a tiny covered pickup with seats for eight, I soon realized why we had been laughing when the 18th person climbed in.

Hey, I’m easygoing enough to handle the tight quarters for 40 minutes.

Until, however, the creepy old man in rags standing outside of the rickshaw decided to take advantage of the large opening near my seat and fondle my ass.

Apparently “fuck off” is universal and after yelling this loudly the pervert scurried away.

Off we went…

Wow


Bodhgaya

I love this place!

Here is the biggest Buddhist pilgrimage site in the world. Why? Because this is the place, underneath the Bodhi tree, where Gautam Siddhartha gained enlightenment and became the Buddha. The Buddhist environment is much different from Hinduism. Where Hindus revel in colorful, gregarious and vibrant celebrations, the Buddhists practice silent chants and meditation.




In the center of town

is the massive Mahabodhi Temple that is adjacent to the majestic Bodhi tree. This tree is grown from a limb of the original tree that existed in the very place this one grows now. Visitors circumambulate and pray circling the tree constantly through the day. Its amazing to watch everyone go by; visitors from countries around the world in every religion.




Other than the portion of each day spent on the temple grounds I pass time in the town, which is very much an Indian village.

Ever since arriving to Calcutta last week I have been in Hindi territory…and this is when my language studies in Hindi began. Back home I had bought a “Teach Yourself Hindi” book but I am finding I am learning the most words and phrases from my conversations with locals and Indian tourists. In my past trips overseas I hadn’t picked up much Hindi, instead I learned some of the languages of the other travelers I spent a lot of time with.

In addition to learning this new language I am becoming more attuned to reading people beyond their words. Bodhgaya has been powerful in many ways but the spectrum of darkness and light I have experienced in the souls of people has been a mild breakthrough for me.

I have had wonderful moments getting to know amazing people here…

…Like the group of men at my favorite chai wallah who have helped and encouraged my use of Hindi.

…I have also enjoyed speaking with the Ladakhi jeweler who, with a glimmer in his eye, tells me about meeting and falling in love with his wife, with whom he had a “love marriage”. (versus an arranged marriage)

The darker interactions however, came to me disguised as friendship when in actuality the people are vampires: people who see a spark and light in others and want to suck it for themselves to fill their void. One of these actually approached me on the grounds near the Bodhi tree.

I’ve had my share of interactions with such vampires in my life and have developed ample intuition in seeing signs to identify them before any damage is done.

India, though, brings a new breed of these dark people, and with one month into my trip I have learned to trust more my gut reactions instead of the surface appearances...to increase my scrutiny of those potential of taking my energy without invitation.

You know what sucks?

I want so much to continue the friendly, positive, “benefit of the doubt” approach to all beings…but now having been burned (and several close calls) I have wary reservation in my interactions while traveling.

Much to blame for this is:

#1 traveling alone

#2 being a woman

#3 newness and unfamiliarity

I am such prey to the vampires here.

One thing I look forward to in arriving back home (other than not having to swat flies off me and my food constantly) is to have more easygoing trust in those who surround me.

…friends I have known for years (or even a short amount of time) who have proven time and time again to be

a source of support

and joy…

but mostly to be trustworthy

all of you reading this and know who you are:

I love you

I miss you

**thank you**


On my first day here

On my first visit to the Bodhi tree

I sat under its mighty branches

Initially cooled by its shade

Shifting to the wonder of each different face passing

With an expression

Color

Shape

Unlike the other

Contemplation of this place

And why it is special to many

Engulfed by sound of chanting, shuffling feet and breezes through leaves overhead

It came upon me an overwhelming sense of joy

Joy at that very moment

Joy for the understanding that this emotion

is a result of how I feel

at this very moment

It is possible to have great happiness

In the now

And I wept

Down dropped a leaf from the Bodhi tree

…and I snatched it

my photos of Bodhgaya

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